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Tunisia’s Cannetille Embroidery Steals the Show at ‘Au Fil de l’Or’ Exhibition in Paris

Paris: In an unprecedented tribute to the art of golden textiles across the centuries and civilisations, Tunisia shines with its cannetille embroidery and golden thread costumes at the Musée du quai Branly-Jacques Chirac in Paris, as part of the temporary exhibition 'Au fil de l'Or.' According to Agence Tunis Afrique Presse, 'The Art of Dressing from North Africa to the Far East' exhibition, which runs from February 11 to July 6, 2025, invites visitors to explore the history and traces of this precious metal that has fascinated mankind for thousands of years. This exhibition showcases a subtle marriage between precious fibres and gold strips fashioned by generations of weavers across five major cultural regions: North Africa, the Middle East, the Arabian Peninsula, South and South-East Asia, and East Asia. Tunisia is in the limelight in the 'Costumes of Light from the Lands of the Setting Sun' exhibition, where a collection of richly embroidered traditional costumes illustrates the refinement of its sartori al heritage. The introductory text, written by Leila Temime Blili, Emeritus Professor of Modern and Contemporary History at the University of Manouba, features in the exhibition's catalogue, a work of over 300 pages presenting the contributions of thirty-four specialists who reveal the wealth of costumes from a vast region stretching from North Africa to Japan. The exhibition invites visitors to follow in the footsteps of societies where goldsmiths and weavers combine their talents to produce prestigious textile works and historical testimonies to traditions. Emmanuel Kasarhérou, President of the Musée du quai Branly, emphasizes that this heritage of clothing is constantly being reinvigorated and continues to inspire creativity. The exhibition pays tribute to this universal tradition, featuring pieces from Tunisia, Algeria, and Morocco, alongside kimonos from the Edo period and silks from the Near East and Asia. It illustrates a shared history where artistic creation, heritage, and innovation come together. In the section dedicated to costumes from North Africa, Tunisia stands out for its sumptuously embroidered ceremonial outfits. Qoftans, djebbas, tunics, trousers, and waistcoats display craftsmanship influenced by the Andalusian heritage and Ottoman expansion. Some pieces date back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The Tunis 'kiswa tarayoun' (bridal costume), made from velvet, silk, golden silver thread, sequins, and cannetilles, embodies timeless elegance. Leila Temime Blili, a specialist in social and family history, retraces the history of traditional embroidery in Tunisia in the exhibition catalogue. She shows how this craft developed, nourished by cultural exchanges made possible by Tunisia's central position in the Mediterranean. The pieces embroidered with gold thread show the know-how passed down, making clothing a sign of social distinction and a secure financial asset. These costumes, considered part of intangible heritage, are the subject of sustained interest and research by young model -makers. Across ages and civilisations, gold-thread embroidery continues to amaze, showcased in this exhibition organized by the musée du quai Branly-Jacques Chirac, with collaboration from Chinese haute couture designer Guo Pei, revealing a timeless fascination for the most coveted of metals: Gold, a material of stellar origin, from which Man has drawn the thread of marvels.