Accra: One stitch at a time, the rhythmic humming of sewing machines fills Zakiya Mahama’s workshop as old jeans are transformed into trendy patchwork, totes, and vibrant shopping bags. Extra-large shirts become elegant suit covers. Faded jackets are dismantled and reborn as stylish accessories.
According to Ghana News Agency, Zakiya uses available materials like denim, jackets, and secondhand shirts, sometimes adding batik to make the designs unique. Her brand, founded in Ghana, advocates for sustainable fashion, merging heritage with upcycled design. Her bespoke, fashion-forward pieces are a testament to her skills and the longstanding tradition of Ghanaian tailors, who have repurposed clothing long before sustainability became a buzzword.
Kwabena Amankwah, a tailor at Accra’s Kantamanto Market, exemplifies this tradition. His work primarily involves altering men’s clothing, but he notes that much of the discarded fabric is taken away by waste companies, with its final destination unknown. According to The Or Foundation, the volume of secondhand clothes imported annually into Ghana could fill 23 Accra Sports Stadiums, with nearly half deemed waste. The Ghana Used Clothing Dealers Association, however, estimates waste at just five percent, highlighting the complexity and opacity of the trade.
The increase in textile waste is attributed to declining product quality, says Mr. Solomon Noi-Adzeman Nuetey, Director of Waste Management at the Accra Metropolitan Assembly. Selina Amoah, Director of the Environmental Quality Unit at the EPA, adds that unsold or unreused textiles contribute to greenhouse gas emissions when dumped or burnt.
Despite these challenges, there is potential for economic opportunity through upcycling and recycling. Yet, these activities remain informal and underfunded. Kwabena Koomson-Grant of The Or Foundation points out that many artisans lack proper machinery and training, hindering consistent quality production. Ghana’s fragmented supply chain and lack of infrastructure further complicate matters.
The Ghana Circular Economy Centre (GCEC) seeks to address these challenges by promoting sustainable practices aligned with circular economy principles. The project aims to reduce environmental degradation and economic inefficiencies associated with secondhand clothing importation and waste disposal. GCEC’s efforts include establishing a centre of excellence, providing training, technical assistance, and support to the financial sector.
The Or Foundation will play a central role in piloting innovations and shifting practices towards a circular economy. The project aims to enhance livelihoods, reduce pollution, and strengthen Ghana’s capacity to manage textile waste. GCEC has funding for five years from Global Affairs Canada and seeks to expand its reach and influence.
Experts warn that without immediate policy action, Ghana’s secondhand clothing sector could become a larger environmental burden. Mr. Nuetey calls for a scientific assessment of marine textile pollution, a concern supported by a recent beach clean-up that recovered significant textile waste.
To address unfair practices in the sector, stakeholders call for a national policy on sustainable secondhand clothing trade. This policy would set import standards, promote repurposing industries, and establish proper disposal protocols. The goal is to integrate import quality control, support green fashion start-ups, and include textile waste in municipal systems.
For now, designers like Zakiya and thousands of tailors continue to innovate, transforming discarded clothes into valuable items despite little support. As Ghana works towards its climate goals, the potential of repurposed textiles offers a promising path forward.